Tag Archives: Canadian Arctic

AN ARCTIC SUMMER PART I 1977

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MORRISON KIDS WITH LOCAL CHILDREN

Alex was now contracted by the Government of the Northwest Territories to build on-site fuel storage depots in a number of Arctic communities to take care of their heating, electricity etc. Looking back I am amazed how he and Bob managed to get equipment to hamlets that had no road access. It required getting equipment onto barges the previous summer.

We are all aware of the plight of our First Nations people. I want to include some of our observations, having lived and worked in Yellowknife and an additional 1,000 km north, on the Arctic Islands.

Alex was unusually moved by his experience in HOLMAN on Victoria Island. He arranged to use the RCMP trailer for accommodation for he and probably two others. He was amazed to hear that the police only visited once a month because there really was no crime. He was equally gratified to find that the barrels of fuel he had shipped in the year before, had sat on the beach all winter in view of the town and all the men and their snowmobiles, and not a drop had been stolen. He was also very affected by how happy the children were. This was pre -television days in this hamlet. Here is the unhappy ending to this tale. A year after television arrived courtesy of the Federal Government, the Hudson Bay store was vandalised . Eventually, if my memory serves, all the windows of the northern stores were boarded up in the pursuant years, but cannot speak to the current situation.INUIT WOMEN IN HOLMAN

NORMAN WELLS is an oil town. The Scottish explorer, Alexander MacKenzie http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Mackenzie_(explorer)saw oil first in 1789 and by 1937 a refinery had been built, and it was a crucial source of fuel during the second world war, supplying the Yukon and Alaska.
Alex, Bob and Ernie our welder from Hay River, flew in there and built a tank in the early summer. When school was over, Jonathan, Michelle, Janine and I flew from Yellowknife to join them, on a fine summer evening. There still is no road access into this town, other than an ice road in the winter.

Once there, we boarded a small chartered plane to fly us to our next destination FT GOOD HOPE, 145 km north, also on the beautiful Mackenzie River. Checking the population, I find there was about 500 people there in 2012, a shrinking population, but I doubt there was even this many, when we were there, 37 years ago. Flying north into the midnight sun, made a long day.

We landed and I remember we were taken to the local School Hostel. It could be called a residential school, but it was empty now, as all the children had gone back to their communities. I was thrilled to be able to cook for family and crew with a very adequate government issue kitchen, with bedrooms for our us all. How did Alex arrange all this? Now as our supplies were unloaded from the plane and taken to the hostel, the local men came out of the surrounding area, to check us out.There was handshaking and introductions. When one man extended his hand to Alex and said his name, Jonas K???, Alex went into amazement mode and said to the poor man,(Jonathan,10 at the time, remembers this well) “How did you get here?” Poor Jonas looked blank and as Alex repeated his question, again, he made a little nod with his head and said he had walked.

More amazement,as Alex’s brain was trying to figure this out, but there are no more planes today. Alex had hired a welder named Jonas C?? over the phone who was supposed to meet us in Norman Wells, to fly in with our charter, but didn’t show. So, now Alex was wondering how he could have possibly got there before us. When Alex told the story he always included, ” just another crazy white man”. The next morning in came the welder Jonas, his own private charter, charged to the crazy white man.
In this small community of Dene and Slavey people, I recall the children coming to our door by age groups, five year olds for Janine, 9 year olds for Michelle and boys for Jonathan. Jon says there wasn’t much communication, they were from different worlds. There were ripe berries in season, I wish I could remember what they were, but the current craze for the children was to clutch a plastic bag with berries and after they were squeezed into a thick juice to enjoy, leaving plenty on their faces.Such a simple pleasure, but what struck me there in that community, was how the children that came by wanted to know my name. They didn’t want to know Mrs Morrison, they needed to know my name!! It was interesting to me. One boy was trying to tell me who he was, and he said , “he used to be my father and now he is my uncle.”
This made sense to him, as a fairly large proportion of babies are raised by their grandmothers. Among the Inuit, it was common for a girl to give her first child to her mother. Also, possibly to a sister who had not had a baby recently and had a very young baby already. It was not considered rejection and the child was fully aware who his birth mother was. “It takes a community to raise a child” right?
I remember we would try to keep regular working hours, and would attempt getting to bed before midnight with  children were playing merrily under our window, in the daylight. Then if I would go to the CO-o, for food the next morning , it would be deserted,everyone still sleeping.
The other remarkable landmark in this pretty little community was the Our Lady of Good Hope church, built in the 1860’s. Missionaries had  arrived from France , I saw the large tombstones in the graveyard there. They were responsible for the log church that looked unremarkable from the outside, but anything but ordinary inside. The interior was painstakingly painted with frescoes over every wall and even the ceiling. I will include a current picture from the web. It appears they have done an upgrade which includes a very dramatic starry ceiling.
I’ll see you soon at our next stop north in FT MCPHERSON

2005-07-06 Church at Fort Good Hope

ARCTIC SUMMER PART 3

With Jonathan and Michelle back in school back in Yellowknife, Janine 4, and I flew back to Ft McPherson,  with a sleep over in Inuvik. We 100_2362arrived  back to join Alex and the crew, in the midst of a kind of excitement   of having lived through a potential disaster but  again dodging it.  The day before, when they started the large generator, all the hydraulic systems were still open on the large jacks.  This in fact  literally launched the partly constructed tank into the swamp.!!

Alex’s had some  panicky  seconds of trying to imagine how he could possibly get  a   large crane to come from Inuvik and this might in fact make this whole summer a loss financially.  As the dust settled, Alex looked up to see the gentleman who was the local water delivery man. This man was not very amenable  to bringing us water when we first arrived. Now here he was looking wide eyed and concerned for what he had just witnessed.  He held a part from some machine in his hand, and Alex strolled over and said , “is there something I can do for you?”  I wish I could remember his name, but he hesitantly held out the piece he wanted welded.  After Alex completed that task, for the man who had been difficult up to this time, he said ,a plan to bring the tank back to it’s upright position was dropped into his mind. Amazingly,due to the skill he and the crew had with cables, winches etc. the tank was up on the jacks and ready to continue. Perhaps because Alex was able to step back from his own little disaster, to help this man who had been difficult, allowed him to receive the help he so desperately needed. 

Now, September was here, and according to the locals, winter could show its face at any time. Alex, Janine and I moved into a government owned apartment with high ceilings, and large windows that afforded a grand view of the Peel River and the Richardson Mountains, on the Yukon border, in the distance. Day by day, the color of those hills turned darker and more purple, as the wild flowers did their “thing”.

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The weeks passed and the phone calls from the NWT Government construction department continued, pressing Alex “will you be ready?’

“If you would stop calling, I could keep working”.

Now, the word came through the local contact man, “the barge was just one day away”.We were not ready, and the tension was high.
The next morning, from the tank site beside the river, the men could see the barge in the middle of the river within site, but it wasn’t moving.

Next came the pick up truck saying, “the barge is stuck on a sandbar, so it will be late” Hallelujah!!
Next, the district inspector flew in and delivered the ultimatum, that the tank would need to be x-rayed. Alex drew attention to the contract that stated, if it passed the hydro test(pumped full of water) that would suffice, which it did pass. This man was adamant that an x-ray crew would be flown in from Calgary. Can you believe how grateful we were the barge was stuck up river? Alex knew that in many cases like this, said inspector, would be asking for a little greasing of the palms, but he did not take the bait.
So, now the x-ray crew arrived and took more than the required shots. The barge had arrived in front of Alex’ two tanks, waiting and as the sun was starting to set, there was kind of a “holy hush” on that site. We were all waiting for the radiography crew to finish, and I know Alex was praying for a miracle.

The little man, who set up the drama, was pacing . I remember when the x-ray man said “you can start pumping, nuclear quality welds”. No one was more shocked than Alex. It is one thing to pass a hydro test, but not this quality. Now the government inspector started to suspect that Alex had paid off the x-ray people. I remember the film being held up into the sunset rays, and it couldn’t be argued with. The tap was turned on and we breathed a sigh of relief

 As Alex and Bob started to pick up tools, etc, Alex overheard the inspector being berated and sworn at for overlooking the hook up of some smaller vessels, in preparation for receiving fuel. Alex stepped up and offered to hook them up for him to get them out of his jam. This, however, put us at risk for not getting our equipment and machinery on the same barge to get out of McPherson, the last one of the year.

Finally, all the welding was finished , and next day Janine and I were on site, and we were trying to rationalise, that perhaps our machinery could stay in there till next year. Like Alex often said “we don’t know enough to be pessimistic.”

As he continued to clean up, we eventually saw the barge pass us, leaving without our equipment. Much later as the sun was nearly set, in came a Northern Transportation truck, with the captain marching up, a little annoyed, to Alex saying,
“You must have friends pretty  “high up” for my shore captain to call me saying” go back for Morrison’s load.” It must have been high up, because Alex did not contact anyone on the matter . The loading of equipment went on into the night, as I recall, in a very soft rain.

On September 21, we were flying out ourselves The water delivery man was there  and as  we loaded he said to Alex “you must have favour with God, I have never seen the snow stay away this long.”

As we lifted away from the scene in that  little plane, I was surprised and delighted to see beautiful white swans gathered on the lake below us.

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